If you’re still using Microsoft Office 2019 for Mac, on July 13, 2026, an expiring certificate will cause your copies of Word, Excel, PowerPoint, and Outlook to enter “reduced functionality mode,” meaning you can view and print documents but cannot edit or create new ones. To check if you’re affected, open Word and choose Word > About Microsoft Word (or the equivalent in any other Office app). If it says you’re using Office 2019, you need to act before July 13. Some newer versions are also affected but can be updated—for Office 2021 and Microsoft 365, an update is required for app versions under 16.83, and macOS 12 Monterey or later is required. For Office 2019 users, options include subscribing to Microsoft 365 ($99.99/year), purchasing a one-time license for Office 2024 for $179.99 (Home) or $249.99 (Home & Business with Outlook), or switching to alternatives like Apple’s iWork apps (Pages, Numbers, and Keynote), LibreOffice, or Google Docs. New purchases of Microsoft 365 or Office 2024 require macOS 14 Sonoma or later, so users whose Macs can’t upgrade must use Microsoft 365 on the Web, consider the alternatives, or upgrade their hardware.

(Featured image based on an original by iStock.com/grinvalds)

Low-light video calls? macOS 26.2 has a clever fix.

We’ve all been there.
Quick call. Bad lighting. Laptop camera doing you zero favors.

macOS 26.2 Tahoe introduced a feature called Edge Light, and it’s surprisingly helpful.

Instead of needing a ring light, your Mac uses the edges of the screen to softly light your face during video calls. Think: an on-screen ring light for when you’re working on the go or stuck in a dim room.

Here’s how it works:

• It turns on from the green camera icon in the menu bar (when your camera is active)

• On 2024+ Macs, you can set it to turn on automatically in low-light

• You can adjust the light width and color temperature

• Bonus: the light moves out of the way when your mouse gets close (Apple thought of that)

Is it a replacement for proper lighting?
No.

Is it a solid backup when conditions aren’t ideal?
Absolutely.

Small features like this are a reminder that OS updates aren’t just about security patches—they can quietly improve your day-to-day work, too.

Apple has raised the monthly subscription fee for Apple TV+ to $12.99, marking the third price increase since the streaming service launched at $4.99 in 2019. While the monthly cost has increased, Apple kept the annual subscription priced at $99, making it a more economical choice for those who plan to maintain their subscription throughout the year. Apple doesn’t put the annual billing option front and center on the Apple TV+ website, as you can see below, but you can easily switch to it in Settings > Your Name > Subscriptions on your iPhone or iPad or in System Settings > Your Name > Media & Purchases > Subscriptions > Manage on a Mac.

(Featured image by Apple)

A neat feature built into iOS, iPadOS, and macOS is that when you are connected to a Wi-Fi network, your devices will offer to share the Wi-Fi password if others near you try to connect to the same network. However, for this feature to work, they must be in your Contacts, and at times, it doesn’t activate as quickly as you’d like. Apple’s new Passwords app on an iPhone, iPad, or Mac provides a manual alternative that may work better. Tap the Wi-Fi collection to see all your remembered networks, select the desired network, and tap Show Network QR Code. When others scan the QR code using their phones, they will instantly join the network.

(Featured image by iStock.com/PrathanChorruangsak)

Apple provides a handy ecosystem-wide feature that replaces a typed abbreviation—say “eml”—with text you specify, like your email address. (Seriously, copy that one so you don’t have to type your email address repeatedly.) These automatic text replacements sync via iCloud so you can use them on the Mac, iPhone, and iPad. Find them on the Mac in System Settings > Keyboard > Text Replacements and on the iPhone and iPad in Settings > General > Keyboard > Text Replacement. They’re great, but it can be mysterious when they stop working on the Mac. The culprit? A menu item being turned off. So, if text replacements aren’t working in a particular app, choose Edit > Substitutions > Text Replacement to turn them back on.

(Featured image by iStock.com/tookitook)

QR codes, those square, blocky codes you scan with your iPhone’s camera to load a Web page, have become ubiquitous. So much so that we seldom pause before scanning any QR code we see. But if you think about it, that’s the same as clicking random links in emails or texts, which is a terrible idea from a security perspective. “Quishing” (QR code phishing) isn’t commonplace yet, but some sources say there are thousands of cases per month. To avoid falling victim to a quishing scam, only scan QR codes from trusted sources, try to verify what a code will do once scanned, and evaluate the yellow URL preview Safari provides (when using other browsers, all you see is Open in Browser Name). Finally, always install iOS security updates promptly because they often address vulnerabilities that could be exploited with malicious data.

(Featured image based on an original by iStock.com/B4LLS)

iOS, iPadOS, and macOS all let you specify whether any given app should show no notifications, temporary banners, or persistent alerts: look in Settings > Notifications and System Settings > Notifications. Temporary banners appear briefly and then automatically disappear, which is appropriate for notifications requiring no acknowledgment. But what if you see a temporary banner only as it’s disappearing and can’t read it in time? You can find a historical list of notifications in Notification Center. To open it from the Lock Screen on an iPhone or iPad, swipe up from the middle of the screen. From any other screen, swipe down from the center of the top of the screen. On the Mac, click the date and time in the upper right corner. If your Mac has a trackpad, you can also swipe with two fingers from the right edge.

(Featured image based on an original by iStock.com/Shutthiphong Chandaeng)

We recently wrote an article for those who manage their own Internet domain names about using SPF, DKIM, and DMARC to prevent your domains from being used in phishing attacks and enhance the deliverability of legitimate email. But what about other domains you own but don’t use for email? To make phishing attacks more believable, spammers sometimes forge email so it appears to come from parked domains that aren’t protected. You can use SPF, DKIM, and DMARC to ensure that forged email that seems to come from your unused domains isn’t accepted. The details are too specific to go into here, but Cloudflare has an excellent article outlining what you need to do.

(Featured image based on an original by iStock.com/Igor Kutyaev)

When you connect to a public Wi-Fi network at an airport, hotel, coffee shop, or school, you may need to interact with a captive portal login page to be granted access to the network. It might require you to enter login credentials, ask for your name, or make you agree to terms of service. But what if that login page doesn’t appear, or something kicks you off the network and you can’t reconnect? In Safari, navigate to captive.apple.com, which should force the captive portal to display its login page again. If that doesn’t work, remove any custom DNS servers and restart. On the Mac, find custom DNS servers in System Settings > Network > Wi-Fi > Details > DNS. On an iPhone or iPad, go to Settings > Wi-Fi > Network Name > Configure DNS and choose Automatic.

(Featured image based on an original by iStock.com/CreativaImages)

In the Apple world, the account that controls access to all your Apple-related online services is the Apple ID. Buying apps from the App Store, putting photos in iCloud Photos, and sharing data between iCloud-enabled apps—all these actions rely on your Apple ID. If you’re a regular Apple user, you have an Apple ID associated with your email address.

Most Apple users set up an Apple ID when they configure their first Apple device, and if you don’t have an email address that you want to use, you can create a free @icloud.com address during the process. (If you need to create a new Apple ID, you can do that at appleid.apple.com.)

There are actually two types of Apple IDs: personal Apple IDs used by individual users and managed Apple IDs given to employees by businesses and other organizations. Managed Apple IDs are popular with companies that give devices to staff members and need to ensure compliance with various usage and security policies. Let’s look at how they differ:

• Creation, ownership, and control: Individuals set up personal Apple IDs on their own and maintain full ownership over the account and control over the device. Managed Apple IDs are set up by the organization, typically through Apple Business Manager, and the organization retains ownership and control for centralized management. That control is essential when an employee leaves. Otherwise, a company may be unable to reset a returned device and give it to another employee.
• Access to Apple services: Personal Apple IDs have full access to all Apple services and features. Managed Apple IDs have much more limited access to protect the organization from unauthorized purchases and insecure behavior. Users with managed Apple IDs can’t purchase anything from the App Store, iTunes Store, or Apple Books. Nor can they access Apple Arcade, Apple Fitness+, Apple Music, Apple Music radio, Apple News+, or Apple TV+. The Find My, Health, Home, Journal, and Wallet apps aren’t available or fully functional. Plus, Apple Pay, iCloud Family Sharing, iCloud Mail, and iCloud+ services like Private Relay, Hide My Email, and custom email domains are unavailable.
• Security and management: When a device relies on a personal Apple ID, that user is responsible for maintaining security and managing apps (which will belong to the user). That’s appropriate for individuals, but for companies that need to protect corporate information, managed Apple IDs allow the IT department to enhance security by requiring passcodes, enforcing password policies, setting role-based permissions, and separating work and personal data. On the management side, managed Apple IDs make it easier to reset devices, revoke access, comply with legal and privacy regulations, integrate with corporate identity systems, and centralize app licensing.

Though some organizations may prevent it, it is technically possible to use both types of Apple IDs on the same device. For instance, you could use a managed Apple ID on an employer-provided device along with a personal ID to access the App Store, Apple Music, Apple News+, and other Apple services. To do that on an iPhone, you’d go to Settings > Your Name > Media & Purchases and either sign in with your personal Apple ID or, if necessary, tap Sign Out and sign back in.

What’s the takeaway? There are three possibilities, depending on who owns the device and the employer’s security and management policies:

• Personal device not used for work: If you’re a regular user who has purchased your own device and you either don’t use it for work or your employer doesn’t care what you do, all you need is a single personal Apple ID. Although it’s possible to create multiple Apple IDs and use them for different purposes, it’s a recipe for confusion down the road.
• Personal device used for work: If your employer has a BYOD (Bring Your Own Device) program that lets you use your own device with corporate resources, they will likely ask to use Apple’s User Enrollment to create a profile on the device that separates personal and work data and allows the use of both personal and managed Apple IDs. Although the IT department cannot access your personal data (emails, messages, photos, location, etc.), it can enforce security policies, install and configure work-related apps, and control corporate data on the device. Some people find the privacy implications of this approach troubling and opt for separate work and personal devices.
• Employer-provided device: If your employer provides a device for your use, they will likely require you to use a managed Apple ID on it. That prevents you from having to worry about security or management, but comes with some restrictions on what you can do. Talk to your IT department if you also want to use your personal Apple ID on the device.

Hopefully, we’ve clarified the situation surrounding personal and managed Apple IDs. Which makes the most sense in any given situation depends on a wide range of variables, so contact us if you need to talk through the possibilities as either an employee or employer.

(Featured image based on an original by iStock.com/dolgachov)

Under the hood, macOS relies on Unix, which is a multi-user operating system. That’s why a Mac can host multiple users who, as long as they don’t know each other’s passwords, cannot see each other’s files. To maintain each user’s privacy, macOS relies on permissions that specify who can do what with any given file or folder. For the most part, permissions work how they’re supposed to, letting you work with all your files and keep any other users on the Mac out of your stuff.

Where things can get tricky is with external drives. In some situations, permissions can prevent you from accessing files written to an external drive on one Mac from another Mac. That happens because the first admin user account created on a Mac is given the UniqueID of 501, regardless of its name. (Because, Unix.) If you create additional accounts, they get UniqueIDs of 502, 503, and so on. Again, the names are irrelevant; all that matters is the UniqueID.

If you write files to an external drive while logged into the 501 admin account on one Mac but then try to access those files from an account with any other UniqueID on that Mac or any other, macOS won’t let you. No 503 account, for instance, can access a 501 account’s files.

There are tweaky Unix solutions to this problem, but Apple realized this would be an issue from the early days of Mac OS X and provided a single-click solution: the “Ignore ownership on this volume” checkbox. When selected, it tells macOS to pay no attention to permissions for all the files and folders on a drive, regardless of what that might mean.

To access this setting, select the drive in the Finder, choose File > Get Info, and expand the Sharing & Permissions section at the bottom. Before you can select the checkbox, click the lock icon and enter your admin password when prompted.

There are three scenarios where enabling “Ignore ownership on this volume” is helpful:

• Multi-user access: Imagine that you share a Mac with family members or colleagues. You want to keep your email and text message conversations private but need to share numerous other large files stored on an external drive. (For just a few files, use the Shared folder alongside your user folders.) By enabling “Ignore ownership,” you can be certain that all users of the Mac can do whatever they need to with those files.
• Access from multiple Macs: Suppose you have a portable SSD containing video files you want to display from any Mac. Perhaps they’re canned business presentations or home videos. Since you cannot know what the UniqueID of the current account on any given Mac will be, selecting “Ignore ownership” will ensure that you can open your videos regardless.
• Juggling user accounts: Although it’s a bad idea to do this willy-nilly, some people regularly create and delete accounts for their own use. Since all the accounts are used by a single person, they don’t think about permissions as an issue, but macOS does unless they select “Ignore ownership.”

In general, when using an external drive to move files between accounts, people, or Macs, select “Ignore ownership” to prevent pesky permissions problems.

But that doesn’t mean you should turn on “Ignore ownership” in every situation. There are some situations where enabling the setting would be inappropriate because it’s essential to preserve permissions:

• Boot drives: macOS itself relies on specific permissions and won’t even show the checkbox for boot drives. If you’re planning to install macOS on an external drive and use it to boot a Mac (Apple provides instructions), make sure not to select “Ignore ownership” before starting.
  
• Time Machine drives: Time Machine cares deeply about maintaining correct permissions, so you should not enable “Ignore ownership” on a drive that you plan to use with Time Machine. After Time Machine starts backing up to a drive, the “Ignore ownership” checkbox disappears.
  
• Bootable duplicates and other backups: Similarly, if you’re using Carbon Copy Cloner or SuperDuper to create a bootable duplicate of your boot drive, “Ignore ownership” must be unchecked. Retrospect also warns users to turn off “Ignore ownership” on backup and restore drives to ensure that permissions are preserved. Other backup apps likely have similar requirements.

One last thought. If you run into permissions-related problems reading files from an external drive, it’s worth enabling “Ignore ownership” to see if that resolves your issues. If it doesn’t, or if the problems keep cropping up in different contexts, contact us.

(Featured image based on an original by iStock.com/Rawpixel)

We Apple users tend to believe that our devices usually last longer—both physically and functionally—than Windows PCs and Android smartphones. For instance, Apple’s current operating systems work on nearly all Macs, iPhones, and iPads introduced in 2018 and later, albeit with some feature loss on the oldest devices. In a white paper entitled “Longevity, by Design,” Apple has now outlined how it works to increase product longevity through design and manufacturing, ongoing software support, and access to repair services. The white paper may be partially aimed at dissuading elected officials from passing Right to Repair legislation that could force unwanted design changes, but it still offers an illuminating look at how the company balances environmental impact, protecting customer privacy and safety, and enabling repair transparency. It’s worth a read if you’re interested in why Apple makes the design decisions it does.

(Featured image based on an original by Apple)

For many of us, emoji are fun, but we don’t want to choose Edit > Emoji & Symbols whenever we want to insert one. A faster, better technique is to set up text replacements for emoji you insert often. Open System Settings > Keyboard > Text Replacements, click the + button at the bottom, and enter the “trigger” text you want to type and the emoji you want entered. You can set the trigger to anything you like, but we prefer the Slack convention of a colon and a few characters from the emoji name, such as :roll for 🙄. Bonus: these replacements sync between your Mac, iPhone, and iPad!

(Featured image based on an original by iStock.com/Yosi Azwan)

Let’s say you’re writing documentation to help colleagues use Preview to edit images, sign PDFs, and convert graphics. (A worthy task for which they will thank you!) For this documentation, you want to include the Preview app’s icon so they know what to look for in the Applications folder and Dock. To copy a high-resolution version of any app icon that you can paste into a document or combine with other graphics, select the app in the Finder, choose File > Get Info, select the little icon in the upper-left corner of the Info window, and press Command-C. You can then use Command-V to paste it wherever you want or create a new file containing all sizes of the icon by switching to Preview and choosing File > New From Clipboard.

(Featured image based on an original by iStock.com/sofirinaja)

Trying to make out a tiny serial number or some fine print you can barely read can be frustrating. Years ago, Apple added a magnifier mode to its accessibility options and turned the feature into a standalone app in iOS 14. You can find the Magnifier app in the Utilities folder in your App Library (swipe left on the Home Screen until you get there), open it by voice (“Hey Siri, open Magnifier.”), and add it to Control Center (Settings > Control Center). Its special camera viewfinder is zoomed automatically, but you can change the zoom level with the slider and tap the flashlight icon to add illumination—more controls can be added by tapping the gear icon. Tap the round shutter button to freeze the image (tap it again to resume). Double-tap the viewfinder to hide all the controls, and double-tap again to bring them back.

(Featured image based on an original by iStock.com/serggn)

If you have trouble finding particular items across multiple shelves of books, labeled boxes, or anything else that’s clearly identified with a text name, take carefully composed photos that capture all the titles without glare. Later, you can search for any text in those photos to find them—tap the Search button in Photos on the iPhone or iPad, or use the Search field in Photos on the Mac. Photos highlights the search term on the found photo. (If Photos on the Mac doesn’t surface an expected photo, try again on your iPhone, which seems to get more hits on harder-to-read text.) This capability comes courtesy of Apple’s Live Text feature, which uses machine learning to identify text in photos. Think of it as the lazy person’s database!

(Featured image by Adam Engst)

Spam filters work pretty well—99% of the messages in your spam mailbox are probably spam. But it’s frustrating to miss an important message that was caught by an overeager spam filter. Here’s an easy way to find many good messages, also known as “ham,” amidst all the spam. Think of keywords that might appear in legitimate email to you: the name of your city, major employers in your area, nearby colleges, companies whose products you use, their products, and so on. Then search for those terms inside your spam mailbox, either one at a time or, if your email app supports it, as a single search with OR statements for each keyword, like this Gmail search (use your actual town name and so forth): in:spam townName OR employerName OR clubName OR companyName. Of course, your keywords will appear in some spam messages, but if the searches reveal ham messages you would otherwise have missed, they’re worthwhile. Be extra cautious around any message that wants you to click a link, log in, or provide private information. The fact that your spam filter caught a message is a red flag.

(Featured image by iStock.com/Igor Kutyaev)

When your team or family shares access to a single account (such as for banking or social media, which seldom offer multi-user access), using two-factor authentication via SMS is awkward—whose phone receives the 2FA codes? One solution is to use an authentication app. Authentication apps are more secure, and multiple people can add 2FA support to the same account by scanning the QR code at setup or adding the 2FA setup URL later. (In both 1Password and Apple’s iCloud Keychain, edit the login to see and copy the setup URL.) An even better solution is to use a password manager that supports both 2FA codes and password sharing. That way, one person can set up the account with 2FA and add its login to a shared vault or collection. 1Password, Bitwarden, Dashlane, iCloud Keychain, and others provide such features.

(Featured image by iStock.com/May_Chanikran)

Research suggests that exposure to blue light fools your body into thinking it’s daytime, making it harder to fall asleep if you work late on a Mac with a bright white (which has a lot of blue light) screen. To help, a macOS feature called Night Shift subtly changes the colors of the screen as the sun sets to reduce the amount of blue light hitting your eyes. In essence, everything gets slightly warmer. To configure your Night Shift schedule—so it turns on and off automatically—go to System Settings > Displays > Night Shift. You can set any times, but Sunset to Sunrise adjusts for the sun’s movement in your location throughout the year. One warning: if you edit photos or videos, or work on graphics where specific colors matter, Night Shift’s color changes may be problematic.

(Featured image by iStock.com/PeopleImages)

Take a moment and look behind your Mac. Do you see a tangle of cables? The main downside of a mess of cables is that it’s a cluster of chaos that attracts dust bunnies. However, it’s possible for power cables—especially when tightly bundled or looped—to emit electromagnetic interference that can disrupt or degrade the signal carried by nearby data or network cables. They can also heat up, which is generally best avoided. Plus, the more tangled the cable nest, the more likely you’ll cause harm if you pull too hard while attempting to remove a cable from the tangle.

Also, consider cables that extend beyond your desk. Do you have power cables that run across the ground or Ethernet cables that loosely snake up into the ceiling? To protect both people and equipment, ensure that cables aren’t a tripping or catching hazard.

If your cables are a complete disaster, take some time to shut down your devices, disconnect all the cables, clean underneath, and reconnect them in an organized fashion, removing unused cables and replacing damaged or unnecessarily long cables with new ones.

To keep your cables under control going forward, follow these tips:

Select and reduce cables:

• Buy and use cables that are only as long as they need to be.
• When buying new cables, prefer braided cables, which catch less and last longer.
• If you have many cables, try to trim the number with judicious use of docks or hubs.
• Upgrade to wireless accessories, like the Magic Keyboard and Magic Trackpad, that only need to be plugged in occasionally to charge.

Pay attention to cable location:

• Try to keep cables off the floor, but use a floor cord cover if it’s unavoidable.
• Attach long runs of network cabling to the wall or floor to reduce the chance of accidents.
• Run cables through raceways or inside cable trays to keep them together under desks.
• Add adhesive cable clips to the back or underside of desks without cable management options.
• Ensure cables don’t interfere with workstation ergonomics, especially with movable sit/stand desks.
• Keep power adapters away from other cables for better heat management.

Group your cables:

• Use Velcro straps or cable ties to bundle power and data cables separately.
• Avoid bundling too many power cables too tightly to avoid heat buildup.
• Label cables with their type and use so you can easily distinguish between them.
• Store extra cables in clear zip lock bags or bins, one per cable type.

Maintain your cables:

• Throw out any damaged or suspect cables right away.
• Periodically check and reorganize your cables, removing any that aren’t in active use.

You should be able to find a wide variety of cable management accessories, such as Velcro cable ties, cable labels, cable clips, and floor cord covers, at your preferred electronics retailer.

None of these suggestions are difficult to follow, and you’d be surprised how much you will appreciate having neatly organized cables in use and available when you need them.

(Featured image by Adam Engst)